How Do I…Dock My Boat?

Now that Spring is firmly here, many new boat owners will be taking to the water for the first time.   While it’s an exciting time, it can also be filled with anticipation about learning how to use the new boat.  In talking with many of our customers, they most dread learning how to dock the boat.

Boating should be a fun activity, and relieve stress instead of causing it.  BoatUS is here to help!  The following video shows 4 easy steps to have you docking like a pro in no time!

How Do I Buy a Boat? Part 5

In “How Do I Buy a Boat? Part 1” we learned the 3 questions to ask yourself before visiting a dealer.

In “How Do I Buy a Boat? Part 2” we learned about visiting a dealership and researching.

In “How Do I Buy a Boat? Part 3” we learned about the buying process.

In “How Do I Buy a Boat? Part 4” we learned about the closing process.

In this last installment of the series, we’ll focus on purchasing from a private party.

If you’ve been following this series, you may ask why it has been more focused on buying from a dealership in this age of Craigslist and eBay deals.

First of all, most first-time boat buyers will spend some time in a dealership, even if they don’t purchase there.  A boat salesman will have a lot of worthwhile knowledge and advice to give you.

Second, we typically recommend purchasing from a dealership, whether it is your first or fifteenth boat.  You will usually receive a much higher level of service, as well as various perks from each dealer (such as loyalty benefits, one-stop shopping, etc.)  But, if you prefer to purchase from a private party, there are many factors to keep in mind.

One of the main things to keep in mind when buying a private party boat is that you are more on your own.  Whether this is a good or bad thing is entirely up to you, and your confidence level in purchasing.  Some buyers may be perfectly comfortable choosing and buying a boat without outside input, and there’s nothing wrong with that.  There’s also nothing wrong with having a dealer or trusted friend walk you through every step of the process.

Unlike purchasing from a dealership, a private-party seller isn’t going to ask you questions about what type of boating you are going to do.  They are going to tell you it’s a great boat and it has worked great for them. While it’s good to know that the seller’s boat worked wonderfully, keep in mind that what was perfect for them may not be the perfect boat for you.

Below, you will find some tips to keep in mind when purchasing from a private party, to protect yourself and the seller.  A few “red flags” have been marked with red text.  As with any contract, if something feels wrong about it, DON’T DO IT.   Many deals have gone south on a handshake and promises!

Overall

• Before you purchase, ask the seller to see recent maintenance history and/or have a survey done on the boat.  Unless you plan to purchase the boat as a fixer-upper, the last thing you will want when purchasing a new boat is to have to take it in for service immediately!  If they typically go to a specific service center, you may be able to get more information from them as far as recent service, etc.
• Verify that the boat and/or trailer have clear titles on them, or make arrangements for the titles to be cleared by the time you purchase.   Trying to correct titles or registration after the fact is one of the biggest avoidable headaches!  You will want to check if there is a security interest listed (indicating a loan) and that the person listed on the title is the seller.  If you intend to purchase a boat with a lien on it, we suggest going to the bank with the seller to pay off the loan.
• In a similar vein, when you look at the boat, make sure that the HIN plate has not been scratched off, disfigured, or removed.  Much like a car’s VIN, this can alert you to a possible stolen boat.  (The National Association of State Boating Law Administrators has a useful guide to Hull ID Numbers here.)
• If you are purchasing a boat without a broker involved, you may want to consider drafting a bill of sale listing all conditions and dollar amounts, and have it notarized and copied once you and the seller have signed.  If something goes south on the deal it will give you at least some recourse.

Physical Checks

• While a clean and well-maintained boat looks nice, it can indicate one of two things.  One: the seller takes good care of his boat, and wants the outside as well-kept as the inside.  Two: the seller is hoping some polish will distract you from a bigger issue.
• Check out dents, dings, scratches, or gauges on the hull and/or pontoons, as well as peeling stripes or decals . Make note of any scratches or gauges in the gel coat or fiberglass ($100/square inch or more in most cases), or holes in the pontoons, as those are particularly costly repairs.
• If the boat includes one, make sure you check out the cover for tears, rips, missing snaps/loops, mold, etc.  Some issues such as missing snaps you can repair yourself in an afternoon, but some major tears or mold could lead to a costly replacement.
• Check the floor for any soft spots (which can indicate rot or mold) as well as any issues with the carpeting.  If possible, pull up the carpet and check the floor underneath.  Floor repairs are intensive and can get costly very quickly.

Mechanical Checks

• If possible, take the boat for a test drive.  This will give you a good feel for how the boat handles, as well as alert you to possible issues in future.
• If not possible to take a test drive, take the boat somewhere where you can fire up everything that runs on electrical or battery.  (If you are purchasing during the winter in a cold-weather state, make sure you go somewhere warm.)  Check the lights, gauges, included accessories such as fish finders, radios, etc. Take note of anything you find that is not operating correctly.
• If neither of these are possible, at minimum try to run the motor.  Any motor issues will be your most costly repairs to have done, ranging from a few hundred dollars to have a full tune up and fluids changed, up to a few thousand to replace a cracked block or bent shaft.  Most marine service centers or dealerships will be able to tank-test an engine’s operation for you for a small fee.  (PLEASE NOTE: If you are purchasing during the winter in a cold-weather state, be aware that some owners will not want you to start the engine due to it being winterized. If you will not purchase without running the engine, you may be asked to cover the cost of re-winterizing once you are done.  However, an unscrupulous seller may also try to hide motor issues by saying it is winterized.  Beware!)

We hope this series has helped to give you a little more peace of mind in purchasing a boat.  As always, if you have questions that haven’t been answered, let us know in the comments, or give us a call.  We’d be happy to help!

 

 

How Do I Buy a Boat? Part 4

In “How Do I Buy a Boat? Part 1” we learned the 3 questions to ask yourself before visiting a dealer.

In “How Do I Buy a Boat? Part 2” we learned about visiting a dealership and researching.

In “How Do I Buy a Boat? Part 3” we learned about the buying process.

Once you’ve signed a contract and put down a deposit on the boat of your dreams, your sales associate will likely want to set up a date for closing.  This date will depend on when you are available, when your financing (if any) will come through, when your boat is ready, etc.  Keep in mind that each dealer has their own closing process.

The following items are useful to the dealership on your closing date:

• Driver’s license (for each person on the contract)
• Proof of insurance, unless you will be insuring through your dealership
• A copy of your contract/bill of sale
• Your final payment, unless you are financing through your dealership (please note that financing paperwork may require you to bring additional paperwork such as proof of employment, a recent utility bill, etc.)
• Any additional paperwork your dealership has requested.

If you are financing or insuring your boat through your dealer, you will most likely do your closing with their F&I agent or a representative.  He/she should be able to give you an idea of what to expect for your closing.  In most cases, they will have a separate contract packet you will need to sign, and may require copies of additional paperwork to complete your loan/insurance.

Once that is completed, you will generally move to the boat closing.  At minimum, your dealer should have a bill of sale for you to sign.  In many cases there will be further paperwork such as a delivery form, “as-is” statement (for a used boat), extended warranty sheets, options & accessory sheets, and more.  You will most likely also have state registration & title paperwork to sign for your boat and/or trailer.

When everything is signed, and you have turned over your final payment, your dealer will typically provide you with copies of all of your paperwork.  If they do not offer, ask for copies as you will likely need them later.  This is especially true if you are financing or insuring your boat through your dealer, or will be registering the boat on your own.

In most cases, the final step is the most exciting: taking delivery of your boat!  Depending on your dealer, you may have the option for a captain water delivery, where you will go out with an experienced boat captain and learn about your new boat.  If you have the option, we highly recommend it!  The captain will be able to explain your boat’s functionalities, and is likely very knowledgeable about your boating area and can point out some tips, tricks, and hot spots to visit.  Your other option is typically to have someone from the dealership walk around the boat with you and point out some basics.

Congratulations!  You are now a proud boat owner!

Part 5, the final installment of the series, will cover buying from a private party.  Thanks for following the series with us!